Learn about Hans Meyer's historic 1889 first ascent of Kilimanjaro - the expedition, challenges, and legacy of this pioneering climb.
On October 6, 1889, German geographer Hans Meyer and Austrian mountaineer Ludwig Purtscheller became the first confirmed climbers to reach the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro. Their successful expedition followed multiple failed attempts and remains one of the great exploration achievements of the 19th century.
The Historic First Ascent
The Successful Team
Hans Meyer (1858-1929) was a German geographer, publisher, and explorer who dedicated years to conquering Kilimanjaro. After two failed attempts, he recruited experienced Alpine climber Ludwig Purtscheller for the successful 1889 expedition.
Ludwig Purtscheller (1849-1900) was an Austrian mountaineer with extensive Alpine experience. His technical climbing skills proved essential for navigating Kilimanjaro's icy summit.
Yohani Kinyala Lauwo was their Chagga guide, whose local knowledge was crucial. Lauwo lived to be approximately 125 years old (dying around 1996) and was honored by the Tanzanian government for his historic role.
Previous Attempts
Meyer's First Attempt (1887)
Hans Meyer first attempted Kilimanjaro in 1887. He reached the edge of the ice cap at approximately 5,500m but was forced back by the glacier barriers without proper ice climbing equipment.
Meyer's Second Attempt (1888)
Meyer returned in 1888 with better preparation, but a local uprising forced him to abandon the expedition. He was actually held captive briefly before paying a ransom and escaping.
Other Early Explorers
Before Meyer, several Europeans had explored Kilimanjaro's lower slopes:
- 1848German missionary Johannes Rebmann became the first European to see Kilimanjaro and reported its snow cap
- 1861-1862Baron Carl Claus von der Decken made two attempts, reaching approximately 4,200m
- 1871Charles New reached the snow line at approximately 4,000m
The Successful 1889 Expedition
Preparation
Learning from his failures, Meyer prepared extensively:
- Recruited expert climber Purtscheller
- Brought proper ice axes and climbing equipment
- Established supply camps on the mountain
- Hired experienced local guides and porters
- Planned for multiple summit attempts
The Route
The expedition approached from the south, roughly following what would become the Marangu Route. They established camps progressively higher on the mountain, a strategy still used today.
Summit Day - October 6, 1889
After establishing a high camp, Meyer and Purtscheller made their summit bid. They navigated through the glaciers and ice cliffs that then covered much more of the summit than today. At around 1 PM local time, they stood on the highest point of Kibo's crater rim.
Meyer named the summit "Kaiser Wilhelm Spitze" (Kaiser Wilhelm Peak) in honor of the German Emperor. This name was used until Tanzanian independence in 1961, when it was renamed "Uhuru Peak" (Freedom Peak).
The Legacy
Geographic Significance
Meyer's achievement confirmed:
- The exact height of Africa's tallest peak
- The volcanic nature of the mountain
- The extent of the glaciers
- The feasibility of ascending to the summit
Scientific Contributions
Meyer returned to Kilimanjaro in 1898, conducting extensive geological and glaciological studies. His observations provide valuable baseline data for measuring glacier retreat over the past century.
Local Recognition
The Chagga guide Yohani Kinyala Lauwo was largely forgotten by history until the late 20th century. He was eventually honored by the Tanzanian government and international climbing community before his death in the 1990s, reportedly at over 120 years old.
Climbing Kilimanjaro Today
Much has changed since 1889:
Then vs Now
| Aspect | 1889 | Today |
|---|---|---|
| Climbers per year | ~3 | ~35,000 |
| Routes | 1 (unmarked) | 7 official routes |
| Equipment | Basic ice axes | No technical gear needed |
| Glaciers | Extensive ice fields | ~80% melted |
| Duration | Weeks of exploration | 5-9 days |
| Success rate | 33% (1 in 3 attempts) | 65-90% |
The Disappearing Glaciers
Meyer and Purtscheller navigated through extensive ice fields. Today, these glaciers have retreated dramatically - over 80% of the ice present in 1889 has melted. Scientists estimate the remaining glaciers could disappear by 2040-2050.
Following in Their Footsteps
While we no longer need ice axes and crampons for standard routes, the challenge and reward of climbing Kilimanjaro remains. Standing on Uhuru Peak, you join a tradition that began with those first climbers over 135 years ago.
Ready to make your own Kilimanjaro history? View upcoming departures or contact us to start planning your climb.
